Arthur Ostertag
A Vigneron’s Vigneron
by Jane Augustine
A year ago, we hosted a tasting tour around the United States for the new generation of growers taking over their parents’ domaines. The roster included pioneering names in the wine world like Domaine Lapierre, Catherine & Pierre Breton, and Robert-Denogent, among others. Arthur Ostertag was here showcasing the stunning wines he’s been crafting since succeeding his father, André, in 2018. It was a historic occasion for KLWM, and Arthur, the only Alsatian of the bunch, brought a certain rigor and focus to the group dynamic, even if, by the end, the relentlessly playful spirit of the young Beaujolois and fun-loving Burgundians had rubbed off on him. Arthur’s wines were the revelation of the trip. For months after, in the group chat with everyone on the tour, my screen would light up with shots of his wines—those incomparably elegant bottles with the stunning labels—standing tall atop the tables of every restaurant the other growers were dining in, in their hometowns or around the world. Arthur was officially the breakout star of the trip.
When trying to get to know a vigneron better, it’s common to ask the question: When you’re not enjoying the wines you make, whose do you love to drink? The answer to this question reveals a lot about a grower; it tells us about their taste, their style, and speaks to the wines they produce in light of ones they admire. For Arthur to capture the admiration of the most reputable winegrowers in this cohort speaks loudly and clearly of the caliber of his wines, and, I imagine, is the highest honor.
2024 Pinot
France | Alsace
This cuvée is a blend of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc from parcels that are typically bottled separately. In smaller vintages, Arthur blends the two together, but I must say—even though I always wish for a bountiful harvest—I hope we get a version of this wine every year. It’s delightfully fruity—think melon and honeysuckle—with just the gentlest dose of sweetness on the finish.
2024 Les Vieilles Vignes de Sylvaner
France | Alsace
Arthur’s old-vine Sylvaner is the bottle you’ll reach for when “dry and crisp” are prerequisites. It’s not flashy like some other Alsatian varieties, and it doesn’t rely on its charms. What brings it to life are its quirks and eccentricities. It is smooth and structured like polished rock, verdant and a touch smoky.
2024 Riesling “Les Jardins”
France | Alsace
The Riesling that Arthur coaxes from his soils is pure and crystalline. Les Jardins is a refined example of what this noble grape can be when laid bare, farmed biodynamically, and aged in a neutral vessel like stainless steel.
2022 Pinot Gris “Fronholz”
France | Alsace
If the label says Fronholz, you can expect a wine whose texture and aromas are influenced by the hefty helping of quartz found on this vineyard’s hillside. Fronholz is a powerful terroir that always lends depth and dimension to whatever grapes grow in it. In this case, passive Pinot Gris becomes assertive and intriguing.