Alpine Wines from Aosta and Adige
by Jane Augustine
2021 Südtirol Eisacktaler Kerner
Italy | Alto Adige
If you didn’t know we import only French and Italian wines, this Kerner—a German variety and relative of Riesling—would fool you into thinking we dabble in the Mosel, or Austria, whose southern border is just thirty minutes from Manni Nössing’s winery. Sure, this bianco is aromatic, and softly floral like some Alsatian whites we import, but that likeness fades after a few sips, overshadowed by a strikingly chalky, saline minerality more reminiscent of a fancy Chablis in the way it polishes the palate. Whereas sunlight is scarce in many mountainous regions, Manni’s vines receive so much he prefers to keep them shaded under a leafy canopy. In doing so, his Kerner stays pristine and zesty, true to its Alpine terroir. For anyone who’s a value-hunter, or who needs a break from routine, this one is a clever pick.
2021 Valle d’Aosta Torrette
Italy | Valle d’Aosta
If the Valle d’Aosta’s treasured wine production goes mostly unnoticed by wine drinkers, it’s not for lack of intrigue or a worthy terroir. On the contrary, this tiny appellation—tucked into the peaks and valleys of the Italian Alps—offers conditions any winegrower would envy, though the fainthearted need not apply. Manually maintaining the steep and stony slopes is arduous work that Maurizio Fiorano commits to willingly and with conviction. His Torrette blends Petit Rouge with a drop of Mayolet from parcels that ripen slowly on the prized sunny side of the Dora Baltea River. This rosso demonstrates the benefit of prolonged but gentle sunlight in balancing a wine’s intensity with its weight. Torrette is steeped in character, fruit-driven, and plummy with a touch of violet. Among the silkiest, most refreshing reds I’ve enjoyed, it’s one I would reach for to pair with spicy foods that provoke thirst and command a bold accompaniment.