A Nebbiolo Progression
by Anthony Lynch
2023 Rosso Dei Dardi
Italy | Piedmont
Nebbiolo may be the last grape variety you expect in a juicy, chillable red, but that is exactly what Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino have done using young vines in the esteemed Barolo commune of Monforte d’Alba. By means of a gentle vinification and short tank aging, the brothers fashion a whimsical expression of this noble grape that captures its beguiling perfume without the deep structure that demands bottle age or substantial food pairings. Expect to taste delicious purple berries, with the variety’s trademark zesty acidity enlivening the supple, grapey finish.
2023 Langhe Nebbiolo “Pian delle Mole”
Italy | Piedmont
Negri’s Langhe Nebbiolo, grown high in the hills of La Morra, strikes a more classic register, emanating hints of pressed flowers and turned earth from its translucent, brick-tinged ruby hue. It makes for the ideal weeknight substitute for one of her Barolos, when you want a taste of that intangible Piemontese magic but only had time to whip up a quick plate of pasta. Its autumnal nuances perfectly suit this time of year, especially if you like to cook with mushrooms.
2022 Barbaresco “Vicenziana”
Italy | Piedmont
Silvio Giamello is the best Barbaresco producer you have never heard of. From just five acres of Nebbiolo, he quietly and humbly crafts wines brimming with authenticity that always overdeliver, yet remain underpriced for the quality you’ll find in the bottle. Old vines, natural fermentations, large cask aging, and an unfiltered bottling: this is the full package. The warm 2022 vintage yielded a splendidly thick, chewy Barbaresco that will develop beautifully in your cellar.