Notify me
A Sancerre to remember
A Sancerre to remember
by Dustin Soiseth by Dustin Soiseth
2020 Sancerre “Côte des Embouffants”
2020 Sancerre “Côte des Embouffants”
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire | Sancerre
A winemaking tradition as long as France’s is bound to produce a few historic vineyard sites here and there. But when some rosy-cheeked monk or abbot—the wine bloggers of their age—singles out a specific plot, you know you have something truly special. In his 1777 history of Sancerre, the abbot Poupart wrote that “the Bouffants hillside is one of the best I know in our Sancerre area.”
It is perfectly appropriate, then, that the “Côte des Embouffants” is now under the care of the Neveu family, who has roots in the village of Verdigny—just half a mile from the vineyard—since the 12th century. Today, brothers Éric and Jean-Philippe Neveu produce a fresh-cut-grass-and-citrus-inflected Sauvignon Blanc of incredible precision from this site. They ferment and age it only in tank and rack by gravity to preserve all the juicy, sun-ripened fruit and lively mineral snap conferred by this steep, limestone-covered hillside. The generously perfumed and incredibly refreshing 2020 vintage suggests that, nearly 250 years later, our old pal Poupart may have been onto something.
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2020 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Sauvignon Blanc |
| Appellation: | Sancerre |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Domaine Roger Neveu |
| Winemaker: | Éric & Jean-Philippe Neveu |
| Vineyard: | 20 years average, 18 ha |
| Soil: | Limestone |
| Aging: | Wine aged for 3 months before first racking, aged for 8 to 12 months in total |
| Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
2020 Bourgueil “Les Perrières”
France | Loire
The family’s grandest wine, a brooding elixir of satiny fruit, cedar, and graphite.
2024 Reuilly “Les Pierres Plates”
France | Loire
Grassy and piquant with a citrus and mineral-tinged finish, it checks all the boxes.
2024 Gros-Plant du Pays Nantais
France | Loire
This racy wine is a perfect match for all types of crustaceans as well all by itself on a sunny afternoon.
2024 Reuilly Pinot Gris Rosé
France | Loire
Citrusy aromatics, bracing salinity, and a mineral backbone make it a mouthwatering match for tangy, herb-laden soups like tom kha gai.
2021 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
France | Loire
With floral aromas and fine-grained tannins, it already showcases its charms.
2024 Quincy
France | Loire
You’ll appreciate the distinctive flavor profile: born from warmer soils, it tastes of ripe, succulent citrus devoid of grassiness, while boasting the same flinty nerve as a good Sancerre.
2021 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
France | Loire
Sourced from 110+ year-old vines, this is hands-down one of the best Cab Francs being made in the Loire Valley today.
2023 Chinon “Le Domaine”
France | Loire
It’s a textbook Chinon, and you’ll struggle to find a red as authentic and perfectly suited to your fall table.
2024 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
France | Loire
Peppery and bright, earthy and juicy all at once.
2024 Sancerre Rosé
France | Loire
Sancerre Rosé is made from Pinot Noir grown in Kimmeridgian limestone soil, and the Neveu family’s interpretation is fine, floral, crisp, and bone-dry.
/
About The Producer
Domaine Roger Neveu
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2024 Val de Loire Sauvignon Blanc “Unique”
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
2024 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2024 Muscadet “Le Clos de la Butte”
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Le Domaine”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2021 Bourgueil “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2022 Sancerre Rouge “Champs d’Alligny”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2024 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu sur lie “La Nöe”
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2024 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2022 Jasnières “Cuvée Sainte Narcisse”
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Beaux Monts”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2024 Val de Loire Sauvignon Blanc “Unique”
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
2024 Coteaux du Loir Blanc
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2024 Muscadet “Le Clos de la Butte”
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Le Domaine”
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
2021 Bourgueil “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2022 Sancerre Rouge “Champs d’Alligny”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2024 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu sur lie “La Nöe”
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2024 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
Domaine Michel Brégeon France | Loire
2022 Jasnières “Cuvée Sainte Narcisse”
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Beaux Monts”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2023 Chinon “Les Petites Roches”
Charles Joguet France | Loire
2019 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.