2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
From ancient vines planted in yellow silex, Insolite is a sleek, spirited Chenin, bursting with energy and without an ounce of extra fat. If it were Burgundy, you might call it Puligny-esque. Thierry’s whites are the best I have ever had from the Saumur appellation, one with a noble history of producing age-worthy white wine of pedigree. On my first-ever trip to the region, a local grower opened a 1945 for me and Kermit, to celebrate the liberation of France by the US army. I’m sure I won’t hold this one quite that long, but it was an impressive introduction to what these wines are capable of.
—Dixon Brooke
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2018 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Chenin Blanc |
Appellation: | Saumur |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Thierry Germain |
Winemaker: | Thierry Germain |
Vineyard: | 90 years, 3 ha |
Soil: | Silex, Clay, Red Limestone, Sandstone |
Farming: | Biodynamic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 13.5% |
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur-Champigny
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur-Champigny
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur Champigny
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Thierry relocated to the Loire from Bordeaux in the early 1990s, and soon fell under the influence of his spiritual father, Charly Foucault of Clos Rougeard. Thierry would ultimately convert his entire domaine to biodynamic viticulture, which was the equivalent of his wine epiphany. Listening and observing his plants, allowing them to guide him, revolutionized his way of thinking. Thierry harvests on the relatively early side to preserve fresh, vibrant fruit. His goal is to produce Cabernet with purity, finesse, and drinkability, while avoiding rusticity, vegetal character, and hard tannins. When it comes to his Chenin, he makes bone dry, high acid, mineral wines that drink like Chablis young and take on weight slowly over time. Aging takes place in large oval foudres (for the whites) and round foudres and demi-muids (for the reds) in Thierry’s frigid tuffeau cellars below his winery in Varrains. His incredibly diverse terroirs are translated with utter clarity and precision.
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
Charles Joguet France | Loire | Chinon
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur-Champigny
Thierry Germain France | Loire | Saumur
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire | Vin de France
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire | Bourgueil
Bernard Baudry France | Loire | Chinon
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Bourgueil
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire | Vin de France
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Vouvray
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire | Chinon
We only import wine we drink and enjoy ourselves, directly from the source.
Our wine tastes the same in your home as it did where it was bottled in Europe.
Like the long-term relationships we build with growers, we build long-term relationships with our clients. Have a question? Need wine advice? Just give us a call—510-524-1524.
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
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