The essence of Provence, Vieux Télégraphe’s brand-new olive oil is an exercise in elegance and finesse, much like their flagship red and white Châteanueufs from La Crau. This restraint is wrapped in a core of warm, bountiful, Provençal sun and generosity, and there is a peppery kick to boot. The Brunier family’s favorite use for it right now is to pour it over their delicious little fresh goat cheeses from their own chèvres at Les Pallières in Gigondas. I wish we could import those as well. –Dixon Brooke