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The Jobard name has long been synonymous with excellence in Meursault. François Jobard’s famous whites, sourced from some of the village’s finest parcels, had a knack for expressing the nuances of each vineyard site, and the wines have a track record of long-term aging—many bottles from the seventies and eighties still provide a textural and aromatic thrill to this day.
The next generation now holds the reins at the domaine, and Antoine Jobard continues to craft taut, mineral-driven white Burgundies with ample body and drive. He has recently set his sights on nearby Saint-Aubin, where vineyard land is much more affordable than in Meursault and yet still provides Chardonnay with a top-class terroir in which to sink its roots. Sur le Sentier du Clou, his first acquisition in the appellation, is a mid-slope premier cru exposed southeast with notoriously stony soils—perfect conditions for experiencing Jobard's mastery through a new lens.
Antoine opts for long, slow fermentations by native yeasts in his cool cellar, and bottles his wines unfiltered to save every bit of flesh. This 2013 shows off opulent, layered fruit over a foundation of firm, stony acidity, and stands neck and neck with his great whites from Meursault. Today, it is perhaps more open and giving than his distinguished Meursault bottlings, so why not branch out to Saint-Aubin?
|Producer:||Domaine Antoine Jobard|
|Winemaker:||François and Antoine Jobard|
|Vineyard:||About 25 years, .40 ha|
|Aging:||Aged from 20-23 months in barrel (4-5 years old)|
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174