When a strong case is made, the French certifying body of agricultural products (the INAO) reviews certain notable terroirs for upgrades to premier or grand cru classification. Marsannay Les Longeroies is one of those select few up for consideration for premier cru status. It would be a fitting honor, especially for Régis Bouvier’s bottling. Its remarkable perfume reminds me of honey and acacia flower. The palate is long and luscious. If you put aside some bottles now, you’ll already have some when the price increases.
To taste an organically made, terroir-driven bottling of Montagny is a rare treat, since most of its production is sold off in bulk to the cave cooperative. But Jean-Marc Vincent, who built his domaine from the ground up, seeks potential in the most humble appellations, which he then transforms into key players. A favorite of Kermit’s, his Montagny is elegant, racy, and vibrant, the result of Jean-Marc’s thoughtfulness, passion, and hard work. If you are looking for a white Burgundy bargain, this is hard to beat.
Enter Bruno Colin’s pristine, sacrosanct cellar and you immediately sense that something precious, almost invaluable, dwells within those beautiful limestone walls. As a fourth-generation bourguignon and winemaker in this illustrious corner of the Côte de Beaune, Bruno has inherited the finely tuned, skillful craft of translating the world’s most prestigious terroirs into wines worthy of rave reviews. In my experience, Les Vergers can be lean in its youth, but it will flesh out in due time, blossoming into its full potential.
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