Young brothers Antoine and Nico at Robert-Denogent are stars of the Maconnais, and rightfully so: they farm incredibly old vines in the region’s top terroirs, allowing their vineyards to shine through organic farming and all-natural vinifications. This 2016 marks a new departure for them, as they began experiments with biodynamics and a move toward larger barrels and less new wood. Their top cuvée, La Croix is a bit of an anomaly: the soil of dark, flaky schist is without equal in all of Burgundy. It provides a stimulating stoniness to counterbalance the thick layers of dense, fleshy fruit. Of the three wines on this page, this tightly wound beast stands to improve the most with cellaring, though it has much to offer today.
What we have here is a young-vine bottling from the uppermost, rockiest portion of Meursault’s slope. The wine grew up in stainless steel without ever passing through wood, so it is an altogether different expression of this great appellation than we typically see, favoring fresh fruit over nuttiness and clean crispness over luscious richness. It was bottled straight off its lees, unfined and unfiltered, to preserve the integrity of its youthful flavors. Try a bottle to experience the lighter, brighter side of Meursault—you’ll find that its prestigious terroir shines through nonetheless.
Moving south, we arrive in the sunnier Maconnais, a part of Burgundy blessed with just the slightest hint of the Mediterranean’s balmy influence. Riper fruit mingles with floral charm, backed by a lively acidity and the concentrated minerality of deeply rooted vines planted in the 1940s. Perrusset excels at crafting wines that are accessible, true to their origin, and reliably delicious at a great price—that’s satisfaction guaranteed.
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