With this Mâcon-Villages on the table in front of you, you might wonder what compromises it makes. After all, a bottle of outstanding white Burgundy can’t be had for less than twenty dollars, right? Well, once you open the bottle, you will be thrilled to find it has sacrificed nothing. Offering flavors of luscious, ripe orchard fruit and citrus, and mouthwatering minerality, this cuvée from the southern part of the region abounds with the traits that make Burgundian Chardonnay so charming.
Compared to the norm these days, with vignerons bottling increasingly wider ranges of cuvées, Domaine Diochon has become an outlier by producing only one bottling each year. This wine happens to be the same cuvée we have imported for nearly forty years: the old-vine Moulin-à-Vent. Today, the wine is made from vines planted in 1920, 1950, and the 1960s, and it remains as true as ever to the Diochon style: wines defined by well-integrated tannins but without heaviness, lifted by fragrant fruit and floral aromas. Soulful and savory, with notes of cherries, iron, and smoke, this gorgeous cru Beaujolais is ready to drink now and also built to last.
The wine above is labeled “old vine,” but the vines that go into this Demoiselle make Diochon’s look like tender, young things. Made mostly from Carignan—much of it planted in 1904—this rouge showcases the soul, depth, and polish that often come from century-old vines. Evoking strawberries and blackberries, stones and garrigue, and the faintest hint of black olives, La Demoiselle is a late afternoon in the south of France.
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