The Godfather of Gambellara
by Jane Berg
Only fifteen growers bottle wine in Gambellara, a tiny appellation in the province of Vicenza, and Davide Vignato is the most influential among them. About half of the appellation’s plantings—from local Garganega and Durella to Chardonnay—lie in the lower flatlands, producing simple wines readily sold in bulk for sparkling wine production. But Davide, a native to the area, knew his hometown had a richer story to tell and turned to the Slow Wine movement for inspiration. For almost two decades now he’s been committed to his hillsides, situated between 100 and 400 meters in altitude, where the basalt soils are black and ashy and fully express themselves when planted to well-tended Garganega. There is limitless potential in this geologically striking microclimate, where gothic-looking columns of hardened lava jut from the hillsides and lurk beneath a jet-black topsoil. Revitalizing his vineyards by practicing organic and biodynamic viticulture, Davide finds himself pioneering a new reputation for the appellation with his scintillating and salty whites. He’s even inspiring younger generations to return to the area to follow in his footsteps. And despite their value-driven price point, in a few years’ time the wines blossom from taut, mineral thirst-slakers into fuller-bodied, chalky beauties. Davide’s wines are definitely ones to watch.
More from the April 2024 Newsletter
