Be forewarned: these are not your parents’ Rieslings! Unless, of course, your parents sourced theirs from Kermit back in the day. What we have here are three examples of dry-as-they-come, mineral-packed Rieslings that are actually quite fun. If you’ve been disappointed or confused by Riesling in the past, or if you’re wondering what it’s all about but don’t know where to start, look no further.
Boxler, one of Alsace’s grand heavyweights, is one of those domaines whose wines are usually rather difficult to come by, as more often than not they’re snatched up at release and taken out of cellars to mark only the most important occasions. Most of Boxler’s wines are rare, powerful, and thought-provoking monuments. This Riesling has all the grandeur of the more famous Boxler cuvées, being sourced from declassified grand cru vines, but its crisp, fresh, easier style is for when you just need a good solid drink and not a major celebration.
Kuentz-Bas, a centuries-old, discreet, and unassuming estate, is capable of serious, grandiose wines. Yet what makes the domaine noteworthy—and worthy of our decades-long relationship—is how they excel in the art of the “everyday wine.” Their starters’ range, including this Riesling, is always a terrific value, made from sustainably farmed fruit, with minimal-intervention cellar practices. This kind of classic, energetic, aromatic Riesling is the house specialty here.
Somewhere between Boxler’s established fame and Kuentz-Bas’s discretion lies the rising star of Félix Meyer. His Riesling Réserve is perhaps the most serious of the bunch. There’s a lot of weight and punch packed in this bottle. The wine is driven, as if Félix is eager to show us just how much he can do—and for such an excellent price. It’s worth taking notice.
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