Liguria: Punta Crena
by Anthony Lynch
Some forty or so miles up the Riviera, a different tradition endures through the hands of the Ruffino family of Punta Crena. For more than five hundred years, the Ruffinos have farmed the dry-stone terraces overlooking the adorable seaside village of Varigotti. Unlike in Dolceacqua, Vermentino has long been a staple here, along with a host of other native varieties primarily responsible for helping locals wash down the day’s catch.
Less commanding than wines from Dolceacqua, those from Varigotti have a lighthearted nature that seamlessly matches the ambiance of Liguria’s seaside towns. Punta Crena’s Vermentino, for example, is crisp, lemony, and slightly salty, echoing the abundant citrus trees that bask in sunshine and breathe in balmy breezes coming off the Mediterranean. Their Rossese is not concentrated and sappy, like Anfosso’s, but juicy and brimming with fresh fruit and herbs, plus a dusting of peppery spice. In other words, these are the wines to pair with a plate of pesto-coated pasta, or to sip on a lazy day spent on the beach—after all, this is Liguria.
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