I admittedly felt a bit skeptical upon hearing of this brand-new Chablis from Domaine Savary. When you already produce stunning wines from two esteemed premiers crus, plus a show-stopping old-vine bottling, why add another? The Savarys assert that this cuvée “gives another style of Chablis, conveying a more saline, iodized minerality that recalls the Chablisien geology and its little oyster shells, Exogyra Virgula.” Indeed, its character stands apart from their other wines: it smells just like the ocean, with a sea-mist freshness to more than satisfy that itch in the back of your throat—the dry feeling that can only be satiated by something bracingly cold and crisp.
Unlike the lean, stern, and notoriously austere Chablis of yore, this release from Domaine Costal is generous, fleshy, and discreetly tropical, as if someone had planted pineapples in the Arctic. All its richness of flavor is then funneled down to a pinpoint focus on the snappy finish. The palate is left with a flinty note akin to gun smoke lingering after a shot.
Cellar master Arnaud Lavantureux expounds that his “idea of wine is to show off the exceptional terroirs of Chablis with élevages in wood that are more ‘Côte de Beaune’ in style, to have a combination of flesh on the attack with saline tension on the finish.” His latest release from the grand cru Vaudésir majestically expresses this duality: there is a textural and aromatic opulence comparable to the top wines of Meursault or Corton-Charlemagne, expressed in the form of a deft kiss of oak with subtle toasted notes and delicate vanilla blossom. But unlike those wines, Arnaud’s have a directness that could only come from Chablisien soil. Already in spectacular harmony, this beauty deserves a bin in every Burgundy collector’s cellar.
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