Insider tip: cellaring some grand cru Chablis from Lavantureux is about as wise a move as you can make in today’s volatile (wine) world. Not only are wines like this 2018 Preuses brilliant expressions of Chardonnay bound to improve with age, but they may become near impossible to find—let alone afford—in a few years’ time. Brothers David and Arnaud have locked in the exact formula for exalting these esteemed Kimmeridgian soils, producing lushly textured Chablis with serious depth and slicing mineral drive. If 2020 has taught us not to take anything for granted, then the promise of perfectly mature Chablis sometime down the road is one less thing to worry about. Who knows—we may all be forced to hide out in our wine cellars by then, so may yours be well stocked.
Compared to basic Chablis, a premier cru ought to deliver enhanced structure, greater finesse, and an increased capacity for aging in the bottle. While this is certainly the case for the Savary family’s Fourchaume, its most compelling attribute today is perhaps its open-knit personality and irresistible charm. The textbook character we expect from this appellation is on full display: it embodies both power and restraint, with ample fruit, zingy citrus, and a salivating finish that recalls the fossil-laden slope from which it hails.
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