Portelli
A Tour of Sicily
by Anthony Lynch
We begin this colorful and flavorsome journey in the south, among the bushy vines of Frappato and Nero d’Avola (here called Calabrese) drawing vigor from the dusty clay soils of the Cerasuolo di Vittoria appellation. The Portelli family once had little farmhouses, or palmenti, scattered throughout these parcels before consolidating winemaking to a central facility in town. Located in an industrial area on the outskirts of Vittoria, the Portelli cantina is by no means noteworthy, but its tanks house brightly flavored elixirs of the utmost purity and freshness. Calabrese in their hands is not an inky, alcoholic bruiser, but rather a thing of ravishing delicacy, defined by mouthwatering black cherry fruit and lively acidity, that would make any red sauce blush. When Calabrese combines with Frappato, Cerasuolo is born, its vibrant perfume of violets and freshly pressed berries suggesting that beauty can be found in the most unlikely places.