White Burgundy
by Chris Santini
2019 Rully Blanc 1er Cru “Cloux”
France | Burgundy
When the estate purchased this vineyard right before the 2018 vintage, they were particularly enthusiastic, as it had an old and near-forgotten reputation of being one of the best in Rully. The parcel is perfectly set mid-slope, facing the rising sun, with natural spring water bubbling up (key in hot, dry years like this one). De Villaine is thrilled to do their part to restore that reputation. This wine contains serious energy, with aromatic finesse, refined bitter notes, and a long, elegant finish—sure signs of great things to come.
2019 Saint Romain Blanc
France | Burgundy
The first thing I do when receiving out-of-town visitors to our home in Burgundy is take them to Saint Romain. The views looking down on the Côte de Beaune are striking, as is the sight of the local terroir with its steep, winding vineyards and extremely rocky soils. The higher elevation and higher limestone content give this blanc a lively, bright initial punch, floral aromatics, and a round, opulent finish. The estate’s history runs deep in Saint Romain, which is the native village of the Taupenot side of the family, with these old vines being part of the family holdings for generations.
2018 Pouilly-Fuissé “La Croix Vieilles Vignes”
France | Burgundy
Someone once remarked to me that Denogent’s La Croix should be the model for Pouilly-Fuissé, the reference point all should use in the village when making their wines. It’s true this bottling offers remarkable power, a big structure, and grandiose richness built to please. Yet it also features a strong minerality, thanks to the limestone and schist terroir, and a deep complexity from the cool and slow ferment (often lasting several years) on native yeasts. I, for one, would not complain if all Pouilly-Fuissés were this good!