Local farmers determined long ago that vines could subsist on the stony inclines of Chignin, at the foot of the French Alps. Not only can the vines survive, but if given a little love, they truly thrive, as evidenced by this invigorating white from a parcel of Jacquère planted as far back as 1930. Deeply rooted in a sheer facade of limestone rubble, the vines yield a veritable salt lick of a wine, its succulent peachy fruit leading to a mouthwatering finish crisp as the cool mountain air.

France’s greatest expressions of Roussanne no longer come from the Rhône Valley. In fact, they are not even Roussanne—they are Bergeron, as the grape is known in Savoie. Cultivated for centuries on these steep Alpine foothills, it enjoys a cooler climate than in the Rhône, experiencing chilly nights crucial to achieving ripe, perfumed fruit at judicious alcohol levels. Furthermore, the rocky soils add a mineral element that makes up for the variety’s naturally low acidity.
     Guillaume Quenard’s bottling, farmed organically and aged in a combination of amphorae, concrete eggs, and oak foudres, epitomizes the freshness and purity of mountain Roussanne—er, Bergeron. It is a class act, emanating jasmine and spice over a gentle, lustrous frame.

Pinot Noir is not the variety the Savoyards use to make their most consequential cuvées; it instead creates unfussy reds loaded with juicy red fruit and a vibrant crunch from its terroir. The Quenard Pinot is one to serve cool and share generously any night of the week, to bring to a picnic or barbecue, or to use as a stimulating counterpart to rich, cheesy dishes like fondue or raclette. Grown in a climate influenced by the Alps on a soil composed essentially just of stones, this singular take on the grape shines for its exuberance and excellent value.