Revelations From Italy
by Tom Wolf
2023 Erbaluce di Caluso “Le Chiusure”
Italy | Piedmont
Cantina Favaro’s “Le Chiusure” was my wine revelation of 2024 and I spent every opportunity last year, both in public and in private, proselytizing for it. Hailing from the base of the Italian Alps, Erbaluce achieves a balance, vitality, and texture that you find only in that country’s greatest white wines, and it proves that Piemonte, long known for its world-class red wines, is also capable of producing gorgeous whites. With its chiseled, cool-climate frame and notes of mouthwatering citrus and generous orchard fruit, it is perfect for seafood, but also pretty much any white-wine-friendly dish.
2022 Rosso di Salina
Italy | Sicily
Salina, the volcanic island off the northern coast of Sicily, is nothing short of a Mediterranean paradise. An extinct volcano rising out of the sea, it is home to striking vegetation of native flowers, cacti, and wild caper bushes, with steep craters tumbling down to black sand beaches and sparkling blue waters. The island also features local grape varieties, and not just the white Malvasia di Lipari, which produces irresistibly perfumed dry and sweet whites.
In this bottling from Aeolian wine maestro Antonino Caravaglio, the indigenous Corinto Nero shares the stage with other Sicilian grapes, including Nerello Mascalese and Calabrese. This medley translates the island’s eruptive nature with a vibrant energy, offering otherworldly red fruit seasoned with smoky, peppery nuances that recall the ashy volcanic soil. It takes well to a chill and brilliantly complements a grilled tuna steak or pasta with pesto made from your choice of aromatic herbs, with capers thrown in for good measure to match the wine’s savory core.