Piedmont Values
by Jane Augustine
2023 Langhe Arneis
Italy | Piedmont
At Marco Tintero’s, you can expect to linger at the lunch table past 4 p.m. if you’re not paying attention. Course after course files out of the kitchen, accompanied by a different wine in his lineup. When I was there last he paired his Arneis, a blossoming, floral bianco, with peperoni—peppers, not to be confused with sausage—red tuna, and parsley. The bright and buoyant qualities of this wine added dimension to a delightfully salty and savory dish.
2021 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba “Sörì Cristina”
Italy | Piedmont
The reason Paolo Olivero’s Dolcetto is so exceptional is that it comes from one of the best growing sites for Dolcetto in the region, a high-elevation, sunny hilltop in the commune of Diano in the Barolo DOCG. Crisp red fruit and a peppery violet perfume come together in this hydrating and grippy rosso, which would match with anything from red sauce dishes to tender grilled meats.
2022 Rosso Dei Dardi
Italy | Piedmont
Fall feels like the appropriate time to uncork this vibrant vino rosso, a baby Barolo of sorts. The grapes come from a superbly exposed hillside with particularly poor soil, offering excellent concentration and character. Nebbiolo lovers will be smitten with the delicate, rose-petal note on the nose, and hooked by a certain density and nobility that speaks to its terroir.
2021 Barbera del Monferrato “Rosso Pietro”
Italy | Piedmont
Winemaker Pietro Arditi’s grandfather was also named Pietro, and this bottling is a nod to his red—rosso—hair and beard. Young Pietro jokes that he might change the name to “Grigio Pietro” for his own gray beard. Either way, this Barbera is full of pleasure, pops of morello cherry, and a bitter dusting of dark cocoa.
More from the December 2024 Newsletter
