Montalcino
by Anthony Lynch
2022 Rosso di Montalcino
Italy | Tuscany
John Benda has only recently burst onto the scene in Montalcino, but he has already made a big splash. Following a radical career shift that saw him go from banking in London to following his dream of crafting world-class Sangiovese in Tuscany, he has established himself in the space of just a few years as one of the most exciting growers in Montalcino.
His secrets? Ideal vineyard placement, with small, rocky parcels isolated in the woods at the area’s highest point, and a maniacal dedication to the study and practice of viticulture and winemaking. Only John’s second release to date, this Rosso is saturated with vivid, youthful, and exceedingly pure cherry fruit underlain by a stimulating vein of freshness. A stylish Rosso imbued with the heart and soul John puts into his craft, it belongs in every Sangiovese lover’s cellar.
2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva “Phenomena”
Italy | Tuscany
Normally, I would urge you to fill your cellar with Sesti’s Brunello Riserva, guaranteeing a grand moment of pleasure when you uncork it for your daughter’s graduation or son’s wedding years from now. But, maybe you don’t have kids. Maybe you don’t want to wait a decade to experience a grand moment of pleasure. Maybe, like me, you just want to treat yourself to a special bottle of wine you can enjoy in the furry company of your cats.
With this vintage of her Riserva, Elisa Sesti has regaled us. It is so pristinely balanced, open-knit, and expressive right now that it would almost be a shame to save it for later. Who says fancy wine has to age? The regal, brooding perfume of Tuscan underbrush, sweet spices, and woodsmoke offer a moment of luxury that one would be remiss not to seize today.