Loire Chenin Blanc
by Tom Wolf
Surrounding the 625-mile-long Loire River, the Loire Valley is so vast and diverse that it is really more a collection of wine regions than a single one, and this is especially true when it comes to the cultivation of its most beloved white grapes. If the western Loire is home to Melon de Bourgogne and the eastern Loire is the realm of Sauvignon Blanc, between these two lies the land of Chenin Blanc, arguably the region’s noblest grape.
2023 Savennières
France | Loire
Chenin Blanc finds one of its most classic expressions at the venerated Château d’Épiré, whose vineyards overlooking the Loire River are widely considered to be among the grands crus of Savennières. Boasting a sublime tension, this blanc would perfectly suit many preparations of seafood.
2022 Jasnières “Cuvée du Silex”
France | Loire
About a one-hour drive north of the famed château-studded Touraine region, Jasnières is one of Chenin’s coolest sites. Over the last three decades, Pascal Janvier has set a high bar for the appellation, thanks to his consistently beautiful Chenins, like this Silex, which achieves an incredible balance of honeyed lushness and chiseled minerality. Serve it at apéro hour alongside your favorite goat cheese.
2023 Saumur Blanc “L’Insolite”
France | Loire
Meaning “out of the ordinary,” insolite refers primarily to the rare band of flint from which this classy blanc originates. But out of the ordinary is just as fitting a way to describe Thierry Germain. One of the most pensive and ambitious growers in the entire Loire Valley, Thierry is also one of the rare vignerons equally deft with Cabernet Franc and Chenin. Showing just as much savory stoniness as it does notes of fruit, L’Insolite would pair as beautifully with roast chicken as it would with baked white fish or meaty mushrooms.