Follin-Arbelet Premiers Crus
by Chris Santini
The vintage 2023 in Burgundy has much in common with 2020 and 2018—“Burgundy 2.0” vintages, you could say. Modern in the sense that while they are marked by a warmer climate, they also show signs that the region has nonetheless learned to adapt to keep a classic charm. These vintages, which tend to be powerful and rich, are beautifully proportioned and are excellent candidates for long aging. Simon Follin-Arbelet believes one of the keys to achieving this balance lies in part with extended barrel time done in his teeth-chatteringly cold, deep cellar, which helps the wine shed some weight and leave room for refreshing acidity to shine through. Another key lies in the land itself. You’ll notice the premier cru Clos du Chapitre is positively singing. It’s deep and dark, yet with lots of crunch on the fruit, which Simon attributes to its quite particular, un-Aloxe terroir of high limestone content, making it, in his words, more “Charmes-like and delicate.” Or Les Vercots, another Aloxian anomaly—a tiny island of premier cru vines surrounded by village-level plots, due to its shallow and rocky soil, giving hearty tannin and robust fruit. A thrill of a wine now, with an aging potential to outlast even the youngest among us. Be sure not to miss the Pernand-Vergelesses premier cru Les Fichots, Simon’s personal favorite of the vintage, and the one he finds himself pulling corks from most often these days—inferring, I suppose, that this is what Corton drinkers drink when they’re not drinking Corton.
2023 Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru “Clos du Chapitre”
France | Burgundy
2023 Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru “Les Vercots”
France | Burgundy
2023 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru “Les Fichots”
France | Burgundy