Bourgogne
Blanc et Rouge
by Chris Santini
2021 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune
France | Burgundy
Considering that some appellations in Burgundy are no larger than a small hill, the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune is an exceedingly vast one for the region. It stretches over many villages (twenty-two, to be precise) and all kinds of geology and soils, with a variation of quality to match. There are some stunning wines being made these days in those hills, and some disappointments, too. Relatively affordable land has made the appellation a bit of an El Dorado for newcomers, as well as for established producers like Bruno Colin looking to grow. Bruno has found what may just be the greatest real estate the Hautes-Côtes has to offer, a plot square and center at the top of the hill where the premiers crus of Saint-Aubin and Chassagne-Montrachet connect. The wine is surprisingly serious for the appellation, gold colored, rich, open, and expressive. It has a lot of Saint-Aubin flair, with an added touch of citrus and quince from the slightly higher elevation. This one will contribute to pushing the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune reputation to new heights.
2019 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru “Les Pruliers”
France | Burgundy
From one of the largest appellations, we move on to one much more typical of Burgundy: a small, single plot carved mid-slope on the côte. Also typical of the region is that the plot is divided among numerous growers, some owning several rows, and some but a few bits and pieces no larger than a garden. To look at who owns land in Les Pruliers is to look at a “who’s who” of the Côte de Nuits, which speaks volumes on the quality of this sought-after terroir, celebrated for its potency and complexity. Romain Taupenot refers to his Pruliers as a “festival,” with spiced notes of black pepper and nutmeg jiving with hints of truffles and cherries. A true festival indeed.