From a culinary point of view, Sicily easily ranks among my favorite destinations. From an ice-cold granita made from fruit grown on Mount Etna, to a platter of mixed crudo that seemed to have jumped out of the sea and straight onto my plate, to a velvety and briny spaghetti ai ricci (sea urchin pasta), the dining on my last visit exceeded expectations and left me yearning for more.
           The biggest surprise came in the island’s hot, arid south, where bushy Calabrese and Frappato vines produce the mouth-watering Cerasuolo di Vittoria. The Portelli family’s reds are undoubtedly food-friendly, but experiencing them alongside local fare shone a new light upon them.
          With bright acidity, low alcohol, and soft, unimposing tannins, these reds beautifully complement pretty much anything, including seafood. The rich waters off Sicily’s coast allowed for confirmation, as Alessandro Portelli served up pesce spada alla ghiotta alongside his 2017 Frappato and Calabrese bottlings. A simple dish to prepare, it consists of swordfish steaks coated in a sauce of tomato, eggplant, red pepper, capers, and green olives. The Frappato’s floral aromatics soared over the dish’s sweet, savory flavors, while the Calabrese (known elsewhere as Nero d’Avola), with its ravishing black cherry notes, also went down quite swimmingly.
          The next dish, a Sicilian classic, featured a more elaborate preparation of swordfish. With pesce spada alla norma, breaded and fried steaks are topped with a slice of roasted eggplant stuffed with tomato sauce and melted cheese. These stronger flavors demanded a more serious wine, and Alessandro’s 2016 Cerasuolo di Vittoria—a blend of 70% Calabrese with 30% Frappato—delivered. Seductively perfumed, with a firm, fresh, stony texture and juicy finish, it made my Sicilian dining dreams come true.
          At home, I will certainly try my hand at replicating these recipes, and you should, too. Alternatively, enjoy these wines chilled with some wild Pacific King Salmon, or grilled tuna steaks sprinkled with dried oregano. This sampler contains two bottles of each of Portelli’s delicious reds, so you may just have enough wine to make it through your next al fresco dinner party, Vittoria style.