Italian white wines are already well documented in their ability to enhance the summer months. Whether it’s a chilled glass of Vermentino served seaside alongside fried fish under the Ligurian sun or a stony Pinot Grigio kicking off an aperitivo on a balmy Venetian evening, Italy’s vini bianchi are renowned for their charming ability to satiate a palate in need of refreshment.
     Less appreciated is how Italy’s plethora of whites are just as well adapted to the cold months. It would be foolish to dismiss all but rich, creamy Chardonnays and inky reds for half the year just because it’s nippy out: there is a place for everything, and the seasonal produce this time of year provides an excellent opportunity to uncork fine Italian whites in all styles.
     Try serving bitter greens like radicchio—not always the most wine-friendly ingredient—with Edi Kante’s elegant, stony Sauvignon or Gregoletto’s racy Verdiso to experience the synergy created when specialties of northeast Italy come together. Alternatively, recreate Chez Panisse’s delightful citrus and shaved fennel salad alongside Manni Nössing’s Kerner, an Alpine elixir of exceeding purity that will match the delicacy of each bite to perfection. To give the dish a Mediterranean accent, add some taggiasca olives then see how it reacts to Punta Crena’s Mataòssu, made from a rare Ligurian grape variety whose notes of grapefruit and brine will echo the flavors on your plate.
     But winter can be tough, and sometimes we just dream of being warm. Luckily, Vigne Rada’s lush Vermentino will bring Sardinian sunshine, complete with savory scents of wild herbs and a salty sea breeze, straight to your glass. Similarly, the richer textures in La Marca di San Michele’s “Passolento,” a wonderfully deep, fleshy barrel-aged Verdicchio, translate coziness to liquid form.
     Thanks to their versatility at table, transportive aromatics, and uncanny ability to warm the bones as much as they refresh, Italian whites belong on everybody’s winter table. And if you’re still not convinced, treat yourself to some seasonal specialties from the sea like Dungeness crab or oysters on the half shell—so crisp and briny in the cool months—and see how they are flattered by any bottle in this sampler.