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Natural wine in Bordeaux? It’s a rare thing. Bénédicte and Grégoire Hubau of Moulin Pey-Labrie are among the very few to have adopted this progressive philosophy in a region better known for its enological precision than for organic farming. The wine, however, does not taste radically “natural”—not funky, dirty, spritzy, or any of the other usual suspects. No, it tastes like perfectly mature, old-school Bordeaux—rife with forest floor, black fruit, game, and leathery tannins that beg for a chewy meat to cling to.
|Producer:||Château Moulin Pey-Labrie|
|Winemaker:||Bénédicte & Grégoire Hubau|
|Aging:||One-year élevage in 2- and 3-year-old barriques|
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171