2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Capovolto”La Marca di San Michele
Italy | Le Marche
$27
Producers
Fall had fallen when I visited Sicily this past November: torrential rains flooded Catania, and the summit of Etna never emerged from behind a hazy shield of gray. Then we arrived at Riofavara, where the charming Padova family bottles a colorful series of wines from chalky soils within minutes of the Mediterranean shoreline. The sky cleared, its dreamy blue stretching eternally around a brilliant sun oblivious to the changing seasons. They succeeded in capturing that sentiment in this fragrant blend of Inzolia, Grecanico, and Moscato: notes of zesty citrus, flowers, sea salt, and juicy sweet melon practically dripping with freshness try to tell us summer never really left, and after downing a crisp glass or two, it is not so hard to be convinced.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2020 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | 40% Inzolia, 40% Greganico, 20% Moscato |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Sicily |
Producer: | Riofavara |
Winemaker: | Massimo Padova |
Vineyard: | 12 years, 2 ha |
Soil: | Clay, limestone |
Aging: | Aged for 3 months in stainless steel, 2 months in barrel, 4 months in bottle |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |
Riofavara Italy | Sicily | Eloro
Portelli Italy | Sicily | Vittoria Frappato
Vigneti Vecchio Italy | Sicily | Terre Siciliane Rosso
Portelli Italy | Sicily | Vittoria Calabrese
Italy’s southernmost region and the largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily has no shortage of sunshine to grow high-quality grapes on a yearly basis. It also does not lack a history of winemaking: since the Greeks settled here almost three millennia ago, the vine has played a major role in the island’s agricultural makeup. Production of cheap bulk wine for blending dominated much of its recent history until now, as we are witnessing a quality revolution that puts forth its great diversity and quality of terroirs, indigenous grape varieties, and local production methods.
While Sicily’s historical reputation is for sweet wines—Marsala and the Muscats of Pantelleria stand out—a number of dry whites and reds are enjoying the spotlight today. The cooler, high-altitude slopes of Etna, with its ashy volcanic soils, have seen an explosion of activity from producers both local and foreign; both whites (primarily from Carricante) and reds (Nerello Mascalese) here are capable of uncommon freshness and finesse. Other noteworthy wine regions are Eloro, where Nero d’Avola gives its best; Noto, an oasis of dry and sweet Moscatos; Vittoria, with its supple, perfumed Frappatos; and Salina, where Malvasia makes thirst-quenching dry whites and deliciously succulent passiti.
Countless foreign invasions over the centuries have given Sicilian architecture and cuisine a unique exotic twist, making it a fascinating destination for gourmands as well as wine importers. With a wealth of dedicated artisans proud to show off the riches of their land, you can bet there are many exciting things still to come from this incredible island.
Vigneti Vecchio Italy | Sicily | Etna
Masseria del Pino Italy | Sicily
Masseria del Pino Italy | Sicily
Vigneti Vecchio Italy | Sicily | Carricante Sicilia
Masseria del Pino Italy | Sicily | Etna Rosso
Grottafumata Italy | Sicily
Portelli Italy | Sicily | Vittoria Calabrese
Riofavara Italy | Sicily | Eloro
Grottafumata Italy | Sicily | IGT Terre Siciliane
Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.
Inspiring Thirst, page 312
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
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