2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore “Capovolto”La Marca di San Michele
Italy | Le Marche
$27
Producers
by Tom Wolf
2020 Mâcon-Villages
Henri Perrusset France | Burgundy | Mâcon-Villages
The outstanding Mâcon-Villages from Henri Perrusset is time travel in a bottle, ferrying you back to the days when you could pop the cork on white Burgundy without thinking twice, when you didn’t have to turn to less-trodden regions for weeknight, terroir-driven Chardonnay. The down-to-earth nature of this cuvée is fitting given Kermit’s first encounter with its maker, Henri, more than three decades ago.
The two met not in one of Burgundy’s ancient, hallowed cellars but instead in a sort of truck-stop restaurant in Fleurie. At the communal table, Kermit struck up a conversation with the young Henri, who turned out to be a vigneron awaiting his first harvest after years of his family selling its grapes to the local cave coopérative. Kermit took note of his address and visited the following year. The rest is history.
Henri’s Mâcons have been staff and client favorites since the beginning thanks to their class, versatility, and unbelievable value. This cuvée offers generous, mouth-coating notes of citrus and orchard fruit, propped up by an impressive spine of minerality.
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2020 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Chardonnay |
Appellation: | Mâcon-Villages |
Country: | France |
Region: | Burgundy |
Producer: | Henri Perrusset |
Vineyard: | 15-30 years, 6.5 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 14.1% |
Henri Perrusset France | Burgundy | Mâcon Farges
Domaine Taupenot-Merme France | Burgundy | Nuits-Saint-Georges
Henri Costal France | Burgundy | Chablis
Domaine Follin-Arbelet France | Burgundy | Corton Grand Cru
Domaine Boillot France | Burgundy | Gevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Roland Lavantureux France | Burgundy | Chablis
In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.
Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.
To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy | Mâcon-Fuissé
Domaine Follin-Arbelet France | Burgundy | Aloxe-Corton
Domaine Follin-Arbelet France | Burgundy | Aloxe-Corton
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils France | Burgundy | Pommard 1er Cru
Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy | Nuits-Saint-Georges
Bruno Colin France | Burgundy | Bourgogne
Domaine Savary France | Burgundy | Chablis
Comtesse de Chérisey France | Burgundy
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils France | Burgundy | Gevrey-Chambertin
Domaine Follin-Arbelet France | Burgundy | Pernand-Vergelesses
Domaine Follin-Arbelet France | Burgundy | Romanée-Saint-Vivant
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy | Pouilly-Fuissé
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa