2018 Petit ChablisDomaine Roland Lavantureux
France | Burgundy
$30
Producers
by Anthony Lynch
2019 Sicilia Noto Bianco “Mizzica”
Riofavara Italy | Sicily | Sicilia Noto
Embracing the charms of dry Moscato could be your wine revelation of 2020. The grape takes on myriad forms depending on where it grows, absorbing the local flavors in a way that few other varieties can, whether it be in Alsace, Corsica, Sardinia, or anywhere else. This example, produced by the lovely Padova family in the Val di Noto of southeast Sicily, is a unique interpretation of chalky white soils, wild Mediterranean herbs, and coastal sea breeze through the lens of organically farmed Moscato. Delicate, stimulating, and completely dry on the palate, it delivers citrus zest and floral nuances with a faint bitterness on the finish that works wonders at table. Seafood crudo with a spritz of lemon and a drizzle of Riofavara olive oil (found here) is not a bad place to start.
Riofavara Italy | Sicily | Eloro
Riofavara Italy | Sicily
Grottafumata Italy | Sicily | IGT Terre Siciliane
Vigneti Vecchio Italy | Sicily
Portelli Italy | Sicily | Vittoria Frappato
Italy’s southernmost region and the largest island in the Mediterranean, Sicily has no shortage of sunshine to grow high-quality grapes on a yearly basis. It also does not lack a history of winemaking: since the Greeks settled here almost three millennia ago, the vine has played a major role in the island’s agricultural makeup. Production of cheap bulk wine for blending dominated much of its recent history until now, as we are witnessing a quality revolution that puts forth its great diversity and quality of terroirs, indigenous grape varieties, and local production methods.
While Sicily’s historical reputation is for sweet wines—Marsala and the Muscats of Pantelleria stand out—a number of dry whites and reds are enjoying the spotlight today. The cooler, high-altitude slopes of Etna, with its ashy volcanic soils, have seen an explosion of activity from producers both local and foreign; both whites (primarily from Carricante) and reds (Nerello Mascalese) here are capable of uncommon freshness and finesse. Other noteworthy wine regions are Eloro, where Nero d’Avola gives its best; Noto, an oasis of dry and sweet Moscatos; Vittoria, with its supple, perfumed Frappatos; and Salina, where Malvasia makes thirst-quenching dry whites and deliciously succulent passiti.
Countless foreign invasions over the centuries have given Sicilian architecture and cuisine a unique exotic twist, making it a fascinating destination for gourmands as well as wine importers. With a wealth of dedicated artisans proud to show off the riches of their land, you can bet there are many exciting things still to come from this incredible island.
Riofavara Italy | Sicily | Eloro
Vigneti Vecchio Italy | Sicily
Vigneti Vecchio Italy | Sicily | Terre Siciliane Rosso
Riofavara Italy | Sicily
Vigneti Vecchio Italy | Sicily | Etna Rosso
Masseria del Pino Italy | Sicily | Etna Rosso
Vigneti Vecchio Italy | Sicily
Masseria del Pino Italy | Sicily
Masseria del Pino Italy | Sicily
Portelli Italy | Sicily | Vittoria Frappato
Masseria del Pino Italy | Sicily
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa