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2018 Bouches-du-Rhône Blanc “Baume Noire”

Clos Sainte Magdeleine
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Believing that Clos Sainte Magdeleine’s proximity to the Mediterranean and limestone soil was perfect for Vermentino, Kermit long tried to convince the Sack family to plant the grape variety and make a white wine from it. About five years ago, they finally did. The 2018 is the first vintage of this simultaneously crisp, succulent, and saline blanc. It is a beautiful first bottling that thoroughly justifies the experiment.

Tom Wolf


Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2018
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Vermentino
Appellation: I.G.P. Bouches-du-Rhône
Country: France
Region: Provence
Producer: Clos Sainte Magdeleine
Vineyard: 1.1 ha, 5 years
Soil: Limestone
Farming: Organic (certified)
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Provence

map of Provence

Perhaps there is no region more closely aligned with the history to Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant than Provence. Provence is where Richard Olney, an American ex-pat and friend of Alice Waters, lived, and introduced Kermit to the great producers of Provence, most importantly Domaine Tempier of Bandol. Kermit also spends upwards of half his year at his home in a small town just outside of Bandol.

Vitis vinifera first arrived in France via Provence, landing in the modern day port city of Marseille in the 6th century BC. The influence of terroir on Provençal wines goes well beyond soil types. The herbs from the pervasive scrubland, often referred to as garrigue, as well as the mistral—a cold, drying wind from the northwest that helps keep the vines free of disease—play a significant role in the final quality of the grapes. Two more elements—the seemingly ever-present sun and cooling saline breezes from the Mediterranean—lend their hand in creating a long growing season that result in grapes that are ripe but with good acidity.

Rosé is arguably the most well known type of wine from Provence, but the red wines, particularly from Bandol, possess a great depth of character and ability to age. The white wines of Cassis and Bandol offer complexity and ideal pairings for the sea-influenced cuisine. Mourvèdre reigns king for red grapes, and similar to the Languedoc and Rhône, Grenache, Cinsault, Marsanne, Clairette, Rolle, Ugni Blanc among many other grape varieties are planted.

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Terroirs

Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.

Inspiring Thirst, page 312