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2018 Vin de France Pinot Noir “Voyage Au Bout de Nuits”

François Rousset-Martin
Discount Eligible $54.00
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Starting its “Journey to the End of Nights” in Nuits-Saint-Georges, this ruby-hued beauty of Pinot Noir expresses the hallmarks of its birthplace. Its brambly black fruit and earthy, meaty underbelly are dynamically enlivened by the vibrancy and brightness of juicy Jura reds. Fresh and silky-fine, wild, and spiced, this stunner demands something equally characterful, like a lamb tagine or perfectly ripe Époisses. I don’t know if we have the answer to the age-old question of Nature or Nurture, but let me “drink about it.”

Jennifer Oakes


Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2018
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Pinot Noir
Country: France
Region: Jura
Producer: François Rousset-Martin
Vineyard: .16 ha, Planted in 1990
Soil: Clay, Limestone
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 13.5%

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About The Region

Jura

map of Jura

The Jura wine world is a fascinating, mysterious, and at times confusing one. The region’s recent surge in popularity on American wine lists lies in contrast with how strange its wines come across to the uninitiated, with many of its indigenous production methods and quirky winemakers requiring more than an introduction for one to fully savor their virtues. We firmly believe, however, that the pleasure at stake is well worth a slight detour to study the wild world of Jura.

Jura tradition calls for aging whites sous voile, or under a fine “veil” of yeast that grows over wine in barrel that has not been topped-off (non ouillé) to compensate for evaporation. The voile effectively slows the process of oxidation, while chemical reactions between these microorganisms and the wine below give rise to a highly distinctive and complex set of aromas. Often hinting at walnuts, beeswax, oriental spices, cheese rind, and brine, wines aged sous voile can come as a shock to the unhabituated palate. Their textural and aromatic singularity naturally sets them in a category of their own at table, perhaps the best setting in which to gain an appreciation for such wines.

Many Jura producers also produce more conventional whites in an ouillé, or topped-off style, as is practiced in Burgundy–or for that matter, in essentially all the white wines we are accustomed to. This method preserves fresh fruit flavors without the rather rustic, often funky oxidative notes typical of wines aged sous voile.

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Inspiring Thirst

I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171