The bitter cold of winter had crept into the depths of the Piemontese cellars by the time I visited Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino in their Monforte d’Alba cantina last December. As Gian Natale splashed frigid tastes of perfumed, deep crimson liquid into my glass, I couldn’t help but to think ahead to the toasty supper that awaited me, certainly featuring a heaping portion of hearty pasta to warm the heart and soul.
     But first, we had business to attend to. After an impressive flight of Baroli that made my hankering for pasta all the more palpable, Gianni climbed down from another tank and released a final dark nectar into my outstretched glass.
     “Barbera,” he said softly, his voice echoing throughout the damp stone chamber.
     The juice swished around rhythmically as I swirled, releasing bold aromas of licorice and ripe black fruits. Upon taking a sip, I felt a satisfying, cushiony warmth, the wine’s broad texture coating my palate and warming my bones like a big poofy jacket. It was just the ticket for a chilly December day, and would come in quite handy when that ragù-covered pasta would finally be mine.

Fast-forward to present day. A balmy autumn evening in California has made the freezing northern Italian winter no more than a distant memory. Late-season tomatoes are still abundant, and other summer vegetables give this October day a decidedly estival feel. I uncork the Fantino brothers’ Barbera, freshly arrived from overseas. Today, it serves a different purpose than it did back in December, but it steps into that role seamlessly. The wine’s richness of flavor is offset by lively fruit and refreshing acidity. While full-bodied, its gentle tannins barely make an impact as it glides effortlessly over the palate. It could even benefit from a slight chill. Months after first tasting it, the Fantinos’ Barbera is as comforting, appetizing, and seasonally appropriate as ever.