Best known for its flinty whites made from Sauvignon Blanc, the small Reuilly appellation is also home to another specialty. About one in every five bottles of Reuilly is pink: a pale, delicately colored dry rosé of Pinot Gris. These vins gris are created by directly pressing the berries after harvest, resulting in a short period of skin contact that imbues the slightest salmon hue to these delightfully light, crisp wines. Denis Jamain is a proud ambassador of the appellation whose Domaine de Reuilly is certified both organic and biodynamic—for Denis, essential philosophies to sustainably crafting clean, fresh, terroir-driven wines. His Pinot Gris grows on light soils of sand and gravel, ideal for putting forth the grape’s subtle aromas of fresh fruit. With suggestions of white peach, grapefruit, and flowers, low alcohol, and palate-cleansing acidity, it is perfect for an apéritif at sunset, but it also pairs brilliantly with ceviche, goat cheese, and many Vietnamese dishes.
When tasting the wines of Denis Jamain, it is clear that the appellation of Reuilly is experiencing a renaissance, moving far beyond its former status as the “poor man’s Sancerre.” Phylloxera ravaged the majority of the vineyards in the late 19th century, but Camille Rousseau (Denis’ maternal grandfather) had faith in the future of Reuilly. In 1935, he planted his first vines here, in addition to farming a large oak forest on the outskirts of town. Denis shares his grandfather’s passion. Though he studied in the US and speaks excellent English, he wanted nothing more than to return home to take over the family domaine. In 1990, Denis began adding to the family holdings. Today, he farms 17 hectares in the heart of the appellation.
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine. 2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration. 3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them. 4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would. 5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
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