2015 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Chalumaux”Comtesse de Chérisey
France | Burgundy
$120
Producers
by Tom Wolf
2017 Rosso di Montalcino
Sesti Italy | Tuscany | Rosso di Montalcino
When it comes to the marked contrasts of neighboring microclimates, Montalcino in southern Tuscan gives the Bay Area a run for its money. Summer 2017 was infernally hot in western Europe, with the heatwave earning the nickname Lucifer. While the Sesti estate certainly endured a hot, dry year, the vines did not bear the brunt of it the way they did in other parts of Italy, even within the Montalcino DOCG. The astronomer-turned-vigneron Giuseppe Sesti says, “We were blessed with two rainfalls during the summer, which were so localized that they didn’t reach as far as four kilometers from us.”
It wasn’t just the rain that saved the vintage at Sesti, producing this stately wine, whose relative concentration is balanced by remarkable finesse. Giuseppe and his daughter Elisa, who now manages the domaine, did what they could to react deftly to the heat. They left more leaves on their vines than usual to shield the grapes from the sun and also worked the topsoil with the “rippatura” technique, preserving moisture when it rains without drastically altering the soil structure. These factors combined to make an admirably restrained Rosso di Montalcino with notes of cherries and mint—and likely lots of longevity. Pair it with roast rosemary chicken and potatoes, wild mushroom risotto, or anything off your springtime grill!
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2017 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Sangiovese |
Appellation: | Rosso di Montalcino |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Tuscany |
Producer: | Sesti |
Vineyard: | 15 years, 2 ha total Brunello |
Soil: | Oceanic Sediment |
Aging: | Eighteen months of élevage in 30-hectoliter oak botti, two months of bottle aging before release |
Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
Alcohol: | 14% |
Sesti Italy | Tuscany | Toscana IGT
Podere Santa Felicita Italy | Tuscany
Podere Campriano Italy | Tuscany | Chianti Classico Riserva
Castagnoli Italy | Tuscany | Chianti Classico Riserva
Perhaps no region is tied to Italy’s reputation as a producer of fine wine as much as Tuscany. Since Etruscan times, viticulture has played a prominent role in this idyllic land of rolling hills, and the Tuscan winemaking tradition remains as strong as ever today. With a favorable Mediterranean climate, an undulating topography offering countless altitudes and expositions, and a wealth of poor, well-draining soils, conditions are ideal for crafting high-quality wines. Add to that the rich gastronomical tradition—Tuscany is home to some of the country’s finest game, pastas, salumi, and cheeses—and you have the blueprint for a world-class wine region.
This is Sangiovese territory; in fact, it is arguably the only place in the world where Sangiovese reaches a truly regal expression. In spite of a rocky history with fluctuations in quality, traditionally produced Chianti has reclaimed its status as one of the country’s most reliable, food-friendly reds, while the rapid rise of Brunello di Montalcino shows the grape’s potential for grandiose, opulent reds allying power and finesse. Traditionally-minded growers have stuck to using only indigenous grape varieties and employing techniques like aging in massive wooden casks known as botti, creating wines of terroir that shine at the Tuscan table.
Tuscan wines have had a place in our portfolio since Kermit’s first visit in 1977. While the names of the estates have changed, the spirit of those first unfiltered Chiantis he imported live on through our current selections.
Villa Di Geggiano Italy | Tuscany | Chianti Classico Riserva
Castagnoli Italy | Tuscany | Chianti Classico
Villa Di Geggiano Italy | Tuscany | Chianti Classico
Villa Di Geggiano Italy | Tuscany | Chianti Classico Riserva
Podere Campriano Italy | Tuscany | Chianti Classico Riserva
Castagnoli Italy | Tuscany | Chianti Classico Riserva
Sesti Italy | Tuscany | Toscana IGT
Podere Santa Felicita Italy | Tuscany
Villa Di Geggiano Italy | Tuscany | Chianti Classico Riserva
Castagnoli Italy | Tuscany | IGT Toscana
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.
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