2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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Just when I think the Ostertags can’t set the bar any higher for what is possible with dry Pinot Gris, they raise it yet again! The elegance and class of this grandiose cuvée this year are thrilling to behold. Fronholz is a vineyard composed primarily of quartz, and the taste of an Ostertag wine from here is reminiscent of this stone: sleek, transparent, and brilliant.
|Vineyard:||Located on the top and the southwest slopes of the hill of Epfig, the Fronholz vineyard gives wines with marked minerality, firm acidity, and elegant aromas that can be rather discreet in their youth. 20+ years, 0.25 ha|
|Soil:||White Sand, Quartz, Clay, Marl|
|Aging:||Aged 11-18 months|
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171
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