Capovolto is a delightful and refreshing white from Le Marche region of Italy, a relatively less-traveled part of the country that is ideally situated between the green, heavily forested hills of Umbria and the Adriatic Sea. La Marca’s organically tended vineyards grow in the limestone soil of an ancient seabed, benefiting from mountain breezes at their back and cool sea air in their face. This pure Verdicchio has a divine fullness followed by a long, crisp finish, like an Italian version of Mâcon. I enjoy it as an aperitivo as I cook, and find that it sings with a classic regional dish such as petrale sole with capers, lemon, and parsley.
La Marca di San Michele in Cupramontana is run by the sibling team of Alessandro Bonci, Beatrice Bonci, and Daniela Quaresima. They are light years ahead of most of their neighbors in growing their six hectares of Verdicchio vines entirely organically, vinifying with minimal sulfur, and bottling unfiltered. Cupramontana is the birthplace of Verdicchio production in Le Marche–the region’s first vineyards were registered in 1471. La Marca refers to a “border district.” All of these territories were united to form the region of “Le Marche,” the only Italian region that takes the plural. The dynamic young leadership of La Marca is producing wines that will inspire your senses and transport you to this breathtaking land.
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
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