2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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As the story goes, about halfway up the “little mountain” of Montceau, in the heart of the premier cru vineyards of Saint-Aubin—and just beside Didier Larue’s vines—grows a solitary cherry tree. It catches the first and last rays of each spring day’s sunshine, producing the earliest ripening cherries in the area. Didier fills his pockets and imagines this bounty as an incarnation of the vineyard’s lush soil and its excellent exposition: always a good harbinger of what’s to come from his vines. No cherries to speak of, but you’ll find hints of other orchard fruit, like citrus and peach.
|Winemaker:||Didier, Denis, and Bruno Larue|
|Vineyard:||Planted 1963, 2000; .43 ha|
Domaine Larue France | Burgundy | Saint-Aubin
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.
Inspiring Thirst, page 236
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