2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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Ancient vines, a high-altitude limestone vineyard, a low-yielding vintage that delivered concentrated wines, long and slow aging in oak in a deep stone cellar dug into the hillside . . . all the makings for an explosive Meursault-Blagny. Another world from the golden slopes just below, Meursault-Blagny is only produced from the vineyards around the Hameau de Blagny, a village founded by Cistercian monks in the twelfth century. They ventured high on the hill below the forest in a search for solace from the town’s bustle. Actually, it was for the quality of the soil. Meursault up here is very stony, and built for the long haul. A mature bottle is simply magical.
|Producer:||Comtesse de Chérisey|
|Winemaker:||Hélène Martelet-de-Chérisey, Laurent Martelet|
|Vineyard:||Planted between 1946-1955, 3.5 ha|
|Aging:||Settling of the juice for 12 hours then racked directly into 228-L oak barrels|
Comtesse de Chérisey France | Burgundy | Beaune 1er Cru
Comtesse de Chérisey France | Burgundy | Puligny-Montrachet
The lost hamlet of Blagny, up in the hills between Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault in the Côte d’Or in Burgundy, is home to Comtesse de Chérisey. This almost magical, lost-in-time corner of the world boasts a unique microclimate, with a slightly different average temperature, exposition and soil than the rest of Burgundy. In our humble opinion, our friend and vigneron, Laurent Martelet, creates the most haunting masterpieces that emerge from this terroir. All of the de Chérisey vines are premier cru, are at least 60 years old, and they encircle their ancient cellar in the Hameau de Blagny.
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch
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