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Winemaking is a relatively straightforward task at Domaine Savary, the Chablis estate founded by Francine and Olivier Savary in 1984 and currently run by their sons Maxime and Mathieu. The grapes are pressed, fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, and aged on their lees until bottling—nothing fancy or complicated here. The goal is to showcase the stony Kimmeridgian limestone terroir of the Chablisien in its purest form, and these techniques, executed with rigor and precision, are just what it takes to allow this most distinctive expression of Chardonnay to shine. As a result, the Savary wines are textbook Chablis: crisp, racy, and mouth-watering, evoking typical aromas of white flowers, citrus, and crushed seashells. The 2016 is delightfully fresh and clean with a classic balance, but high quality came at a heavy price: a brutal spring brought devastating frost as well as two episodes of hail. A full glass of 2016 Chablis is therefore a veritable blessing!
Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.