2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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Sometimes, you can tell a lot about a domaine by how they spend money. Jean-Marc and Anne-Marie Vincent spend their precious euros on labor—skilled workers who harvest their fruit in multiple passes, bunch by bunch, to get each grape at the perfect moment of ripeness. That ain’t cheap. The Vincents can’t command Meursault- or Puligny-level prices for their beautiful, stony Santenay blanc from the premier cru Gravières vineyard, but they make it with that level of quality anyway, and that tells me all I need to know.
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174
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