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2016 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay “Terres Blanches”

Domaine Rousset-Martin
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The vines selected for this cuvée have been patiently growing old for the last fifty years in Lavigny, an idyllic and peaceful village just west of the Seille River. It’s one of the saltiest, most savory, and generous in François’s repertoire, so take your time with it and let its story unfold. Louis Pasteur, a native of the Jura and one of the first microbiologists to understand alcoholic fermentation, famously said that fortune favored a prepared mind. Fortune also favors a prepared poulet aux morilles with a great bottle of wine like this one.

Jane Berg


Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2016
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Chardonnay (ouillé)
Appellation: Côtes du Jura
Country: France
Region: Jura
Producer: François Rousset-Martin
Winemaker: Francois Rousset-Martin
Vineyard: 40 years , .6 ha
Soil: Gray, white marl
Aging: Aged for 15 months on fine lees
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Jura

map of Jura

The Jura wine world is a fascinating, mysterious, and at times confusing one. The region’s recent surge in popularity on American wine lists lies in contrast with how strange its wines come across to the uninitiated, with many of its indigenous production methods and quirky winemakers requiring more than an introduction for one to fully savor their virtues. We firmly believe, however, that the pleasure at stake is well worth a slight detour to study the wild world of Jura.

Jura tradition calls for aging whites sous voile, or under a fine “veil” of yeast that grows over wine in barrel that has not been topped-off (non ouillé) to compensate for evaporation. The voile effectively slows the process of oxidation, while chemical reactions between these microorganisms and the wine below give rise to a highly distinctive and complex set of aromas. Often hinting at walnuts, beeswax, oriental spices, cheese rind, and brine, wines aged sous voile can come as a shock to the unhabituated palate. Their textural and aromatic singularity naturally sets them in a category of their own at table, perhaps the best setting in which to gain an appreciation for such wines.

Many Jura producers also produce more conventional whites in an ouillé, or topped-off style, as is practiced in Burgundy–or for that matter, in essentially all the white wines we are accustomed to. This method preserves fresh fruit flavors without the rather rustic, often funky oxidative notes typical of wines aged sous voile.

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174