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Back when the French still drank several liters of wine per day, many bistros would have a bottle of Burgundy on each table, for tasting. Next to that would be a chilled pitcher of Beaujolais, for drinking. Not a bad combo, if you ask me. I’ve always considered Thivin’s Brouilly a bit like that chilled-pitcher wine, full of rocks and fruit, the joyful, fun side of Beaujolais, which (as we all know) is the side they excel at. This one’s for drinking, not tasting!
|Vineyard:||45 years, 7 ha|
|Soil:||Pink granite, sand|
|Aging:||Raised in stainless steel cuves before bottling|
It is no surprise that Château Thivin is the benchmark domaine of the Côte de Brouilly; everything about it is exceptional. Built in the fifteenth century on an ancient volcano which juts out steeply into the valley below, Thivin is the oldest estate on Mont Brouilly, In 1976, Richard Olney took Kermit to visit on their first wine trip together. It was Olney’s top recommendation in the whole of the Beaujolais region. The current generation of the Geoffray family continues their tradition. Today their grandnephew Claude, his wife Evelyne, and their son Claude-Edouard continue the tradition as staunch and proud defenders of the terroir of the Côte de Brouilly.
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174