2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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There are two contrasting faces to Geggiano. On the one hand, you have the splendid villa, an aristocratic mansion filled with gorgeous frescoes and luxurious eighteenth-century furniture, its impeccably curated gardens as classy as the magnificent interior. Conversely, below the villa lies the rustic cellar, a dimly lit cave full of cobwebs and the dank smell of damp earth.
Two brothers run the place: Andrea, the salesman, is well-groomed and suavely dressed, often donning a jacket from a stylish Italian designer. In comparison, Alessandro, the winemaker, sports a big, unkempt beard and is missing a finger; the ones he does have are thick, rugged, and calloused.
And the wine? Both faces are found in Geggiano’s 2016. Elegant yet rustic, it boasts lovely, deep, seductive fruit with a tannic kick and lingering flavors of the Tuscan countryside.
|Blend:||95% Sangiovese 5% Cabernet Sauvignon|
|Producer:||Villa di Geggiano|
|Winemaker:||Andrea & Alessandro Boscu Bianchi Bandinelli|
|Vineyard:||4 - 25 years|
|Soil:||Clay and Limestone and Silt with Galestro rocks|
|Aging:||Wine ages for eighteen months in 500-L French oak barrels (10% new), and then in bottle for another three months before release|
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171
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