Heavy rains late in the 2002 growing season, rare for the normally dry and hot southern Rhône, left many growers fearing their crop would be diluted by the water. Assessing the quality of the fruit throughout harvest and vinification made it clear to brothers Daniel and Frédéric Brunier of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe that the vintage would give a much lighter wine, lacking the color, power, and concentration that had come to typify their Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They decided to create a second label, and so the Télégramme was born. The wine was an instant success: consumers relished the wine’s soft tannins and utter drinkability. It became a staple of the Brunier portfolio, as they continued to produce it from the younger vines, about 80% Grenache, on the stony plateau of La Crau. While the sunny 2015 vintage bears little resemblance to 2002, this wine has all the perfume, plush fruit, and ethereal structure to please right away.
|Blend:||90% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre|
|Producer:||Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe|
|Winemaker:||Frédéric & Daniel Brunier|
|Soil:||Alluvial deposits, Limestone, Silica, and Molasse (red clay) with galets roulés|
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.