Olivier Savary is almost bashful when asked how he guaranteed his wine’s surprising vivacity during this hot vintage. “We keep the temperatures low to prolong the fermentations,” he says, referring to something not necessarily out of the ordinary for the domaine. Then, searching a bit, he proposes, “We age the wine in 25% neutral oak, the rest in stainless steel”—also typical Savary protocol for this wine. After another pause, and as if realizing it for the first time, Olivier sighs, “We didn’t really do anything too differently.” That’s what I love about our producers. They’re humble, down-to-earth people who underestimate their own magic. The Savarys “didn’t really do anything” unusual and voilà, an extraordinary result. This wine has astonishing tension and wet stone minerality to balance all the sumptuous sunshine of the 2015 vintage.
Domaine Pierre Guillemot France | Burgundy | Savigny-lès-Beaune
The Savarys have earned the recognition for their hard work, and are highly regarded in the appellation. The clay-limestone hillsides of the Kimmeridgian chain are excellent for growing dazzling, complex Chardonnay. However ideal the soil, Olivier brings his own brilliance to the table. The grapes from his vineyards throughout the Chablis appellation are blended into one fabulously complex village wine cuvée. He also bottles an extraordinary premier cru from Fourchaume, as well as a separate cuvée of old-vine fruit in heavy, wax-sealed bottles after élévage in demi-muid. These exquisite wines are quintessential Chablis, with unmistakable aromas of ancient crushed shells and a pronounced, racy mineral structure.
There is so much contained in a glass of good wine, It is a gift of nature that tastes of man's foibles, his sense of the beautiful, his idealism and virtuosity.
Adventures on the Wine Route, pages 232