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The reds from Alain Pascal of Gros ’Noré are big, brooding beasts that convey the full tannic punch of the Mourvèdre grape. This 2015 is no exception, as a hot, dry summer gave beautifully ripe grapes rich with sugars and complex flavors. Blackberry, black cherry, and Provençal herbs and spices dominate today, but with some bottle age (you may cellar it twenty years or more), leathery nuances and a gamey, almost animal bouquet tend to emerge. For drinking it now, pull the cork well in advance or use a decanter to allow its rugged tannins to soften, then dig in—you’ll find plenty to chew on.
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch