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2015 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu sur lie “Le Clos de la Butte”

Éric Chevalier
Discount Eligible $16.00
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While mass-produced Muscadet may be the definition of sour, insipid white wine, a properly farmed and competently vinified rendition like Éric Chevalier’s is a different creature. Loaded with character, these wines deliver a unique kind of pleasure, oozing the essence of briny Atlantic winds that constantly batter the western Loire. Éric is relatively new to winemaking, having released his first vintage from the family domaine just ten years ago, but his ambition and innate sense of taste have already made him a star in the region. Always seeking more depth in his wines and a purer expression of his terroir, Éric has ceased using herbicides and instead plows his soils—a physically and economically demanding choice, justified by delicious bottles like this broad, saline 2015 Muscadet. The Clos de la Butte is a parcel of fifty-year-old Melon de Bourgogne vines on metamorphic rock, and it offers all the refreshment and value great Muscadet should provide. —Anthony Lynch

Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2015
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Melon de Bourgogne
Appellation: Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu
Country: France
Region: Loire
Producer: Éric Chevalier
Winemaker: Éric Chevalier
Vineyard: 50 years; 6 ha
Soil: Serpentinite, eclogite, quartz
Aging: Wine stays in foudre for fermentation and élevage, then raised 10-12 months depending on the vintage
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 11.5%

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About The Region

Loire

map of Loire

The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?

Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.

Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.

Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.

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Kermit inspecting wine barrels

For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.