2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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If you ever visit Bernard Baudry and his son Matthieu in Chinon, you will notice some very useful tools around their cellar and winery that help you to better understand their six or so distinct terroirs. One is a cross-section map of the landscape that shows the elevation and soil changes of their plots as you move away from the Vienne river. Another is a series of terrariums, side by side, that contain soil samples from each of these terroirs. Looking at the map first, you will notice that Le Clos Guillot is their highest plot, located right outside the town of Chinon. Turning to the glass containers, you’ll see the striking color of the yellow limestone in Le Clos Guillot. It begins to make sense why this cuvée is markedly distinct from the others. Even though all of the wines hail from Chinon, the soil, elevation, and exposition all combine to make Le Clos Guillot their cuvée with the most finesse. The 2015 will be tightly coiled and somewhat tannic early in its life, but it is nevertheless lean and lithe—a triumph in the face of a very hot year. Enjoy this bottle over a few nights if you can and follow how the complex flavors of dark berries and graphite open up and become more delicate. This will be a study, in miniature, in how well this wine will evolve over the next five to fifteen years.
|Winemaker:||Matthieu & Bernard Baudry|
|Vineyard:||15 years, 4 ha|
|Aging:||Aged for twelve months in barrel; not fined or filtered|
Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
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