2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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by Dixon Brooke
These Rosseses from Anfosso in the Ligurian mountains have been a revelation for me. They have expanded my repertoire at table for the type of cuisine I love to eat, for which lighter-bodied, spicy, flavorful, complex Italian red wine is such a perfect accompaniment. I find myself reaching for this style of red more and more often, particularly as we expand our selections in this category! The steep, rocky slopes of Liguria, just beyond the French border, are the grand cru area of the world for the Rossese grape. Perfumed, silky deliciousness with hundreds of years of history!
|Appellation:||Rossese di Dolceacqua|
|Vineyard:||.9 ha, planted in 1905|
|Soil:||Flysch (a sedimentary rock consisting of alternating strata of marl and sandstone; proportions of clay and sand vary between each vineyard, and within each vineyard)|
In the hills of western Liguria you’ll find Tenuta Anfosso, located in the town of Soldano, and the growing area (or DOC) known as Rossese di Dolceacqua. The grape grown here is the same Rossese as is planted throughout Liguria, but the terroir of Dolceacqua takes the grape to soaring new heights. The wines are reminiscent of Côte-Rôtie, with their combination of floral and roasted/bacon fat aromas and silky mid-palate with stoniness on the finish. There is a level of concentration, structure, spice, and minerality that the more fruit-driven Rossese from further east in Liguria does not possess.
Punta Crena Italy | Liguria | Riviera Ligure di Ponente
A good doctor prescribed the wine of Nuits-Saint-Georges to the Sun King, Louis XIV, when he suffered an unknown maladie. When the king’s health was restored the tasty remedy enjoyed a vogue at court. Lord, send me a doctor like that!
Inspiring Thirst, page 117
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